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The Korean hanbok isn’t as well-known as other traditional costumes throughout Asia. But it has a long history and a heavy significance for the Korean culture. If you’re taking a trip to Korea, you might get the chance to wear hanbok. And if you’re going to wear it, then you need to do it right because it isn’t as simple as it might appear.
The hanbok has a very long history in Korea, with early depictions found in Goguryeo tomb murals. Goguryeo was one of the Three Ancient Kingdoms of Korea. In these early days of the hanbok, men wore baji or trousers and a waist-length jacket, while women wore a skirt called chima. For example, under Mongol influence in the Goryeo period, women's jackets became shorter and the skirt line was raised. Unmarried women and married women often wore different colors to signal their marital status. And the patterns were tightly regulated according to rank and occasion. Members of the royal family wore patterns that held a variety of meanings, with specific motifs designated for different ranks.
Related travel guides: 10 Amazing Things To Do In Jeonju, South Korea and What Is Chuseok Holiday In South Korea.
What Is The Hanbok?
There are two main pieces to the hanbok. On the top, both men and women wear a jacket known as a jeogori. On the bottom, women wear a long skirt called a chima. The skirt is quite large, with billowing folds of fabric, and reaches all the way down to the ground. Men wear pants called baji. They’re large and roomy and both the men’s and the women’s version of hanbok is very comfortable.
Historical hanbok often used color to signal social status, and patterns were tightly regulated according to rank and occasion.
Hanbok isn’t worn as an everyday garment anymore. These days, most people wear a hanbok only to formal occasions or special events. This includes weddings and New Year’s Day. However, perhaps because of the importance of the hanbok in Korean culture, this historical garment is making a comeback.
The History Of The Hanbok
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Goguryeo was one of the Three Ancient Kingdoms of Korea. However, hanboks today look very different to when they first become fashionable.
Over the years, the hanbok was influenced by cultures like the Mongolian empire and internal fashion trends. This resulted in changes to the hanbok. And men followed these trends by wearing looser pants and jackets that bound at the waist.
Hanbok Meanings
The colours and patterns of a hanbok once held significant meanings. Class and marital status were the most important determiners of what people wore. Commoners wore white cotton most of the time, though they were sometimes allowed to wear pink, green, or grey. However, the upper classes had a huge range of choices.
Noblemen and women wore more colours in their hanbok, but there were strict rules governing the use of these colours. Children and young girls could wear bright colours, but older women wore more subdued shades.
Members of the royal family got the most choice in hanbok colours and patterns. These held a variety of meanings. Many of these patterns could only be worn by members of the royal family.
The Modern Hanbok
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With all these influences, the modern hanbok is both different and similar to these earlier fashions. They’re still baggy and comfortable to wear. Men wear baggy pants that are cinched at the ankle and tunic-like jackets. Women wear the floor-length, voluminous skirt and a short jacket that ties at the waist.
But what has really changed is the colours and patterns available. The hanbok has been getting a facelift to fit with modern life. These days, bright colours and quirky details and patterns are all the rage as the hanbok goes to the streets of Korea. New fabrics such as denim and gingham are making the style more contemporary and more relevant to modern fashionistas.
And it’s working. Young couples now show off their hanboks on tours and on the streets. It’s quite literally a rebirth and one that should be nurtured.
Today, there are several different types of hanbok available today for different occasions. These include:
The Dol hanbok, worn on a child’s first birthday.
The Hollyebok or wedding hanbok, which is more ornamental than other types.
Hoegabyeon hanbok, to be worn on someone’s 61st birthday to wish them a long life.
Myeongjeol hanbok, which is worn for the Lunar New Year.
How To Wear A Hanbok
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If you travel to Korea, you might get the chance to wear these traditional clothings. It’s quite common for people to wear them on tours of historical palaces. In fact, many iconic landmarks in Korea offer free entry to anyone wearing a hanbok. So, look out for these deals when you’re travelling in South Korea.
Women’s Hanboks
The modern hanbok is fairly easy to wear, but not easy to put on. Here’s what you’ll need to do:
1. Put on the undergarment dress, which usually fastens in the front.
2. If it’s cold, you can wear jeans or trousers underneath.
3. Wrap the skirt around you with the fabric out and the white surface inside.
4. Cross the ribbon behind you and tie it in a bow at the front.
5. Position the skirt at the bust level.
6. Put the jacket around your shoulders and do up the clasp or button.
7. Put the short ribbon on the long one, making an ‘X’ and tie a knot.
8. Make a loop with the long ribbon and pass the short over, under, and grab it on the other side.
9. Pull the short ribbon to tighten the knot, which should make both ribbons the same length and complete the outfit.
You can wear a vest over the top of the hanbok if it’s cold, or just go out and start exploring the city.
Men’s Hanboks
Putting on a hanbok if you’re a man can be a little complicated too. Here’s how:
1. Put a white t-shirt underneath.
2. Gather the leftover fabric on the right side and cross it to the left.
3. Hold the fabric down and cross the belt over it.
4. Knot the belt in the centre and fold the waistband down to cover the belt.
5. Pull-on the white socks that are worn with the hanbok, ensuring that the seams are straight.
6. Position the pants’ seam on the ankle bone and pull the excess fabric outwards before wrapping it around your ankle.
7. Wrap the ankle strap twice around the fabric to secure it and tie it on the inside of your leg.
8. Repeat with the other foot.
9. Put the jacket on.
10. Tie the inner fastening ribbon on the left.
11. Tie the outer ribbon.
12. Wear the vest over the jacket and do up the buttons.
How To Tie A Hanbok?
Tying the Korean hanbok is probably the trickiest part of wearing traditional attire. Also known as Otkorum, most people get a lot of trouble in this part and often turn the experience into chaos. Remember the first time you did a necktie? Just like that, you might also get everything tangled. To help you pull-through, here's a step-by-step guide of tying an Otkorum:
1. The jeogori has two ribbons, a short one on the right and a long one on the left. Begin by letting them hang down.
2. Cross the shorter ribbon over the longer one to form an "X", then make a loop under the left ribbon using the right one to make a simple knot.
3. Using the ribbon that now hangs on the left (formerly the right ribbon), forms a loop by wrapping it around your left palm.
4. Fold the other ribbon by its center then tuck the edge inside the loop you made in your left palm before pulling it on all the way.
5. Take off your hand from the loop and gently tighten it by pulling the folded edge of the long ribbon. The final result should look like a half-done bow tie with the two ribbons hanging on your right chest.
When tying the hanbok, the knot shouldn’t be too tight and the loop should naturally lie on your chest parallel to the ceiling. This type of doing Otkorum applies to both men and women.
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Where To Buy Modern Hanbok In Seoul
Right before hanboks completely go out of fashion in Korea, designers reinvent the dress to match today's fashion trend. From being a traditional attire, some are coming up with a simplified version tailored for daily wear. Some people see this as a downright affront to the tradition, but some argue that it is a way to preserve it.
True enough, hanboks are starting to revive, but this time as part of the Korean street fashion. In Seoul alone, you'll see a handful of girls wearing the twisted version of Korean hanbok. Matter of fact, you won't recognize it as hanbok on a first glance until you look closely.
Presently, there are limited stores providing the so-called modern hanboks in Seoul. Should you find one, they tend to be a bit pricey. If you are looking forward to purchasing one, here are some modern hanbok stores you can check out.
Kwangjang/Gwangjang Market
Kwangjang Market is one of the biggest traditional markets in Seoul so it won't be impossible to find what you are looking for here. All you need is some digging.
There are a handful of stores in Kwangjang that offer ready-made hanboks for different occasions like birthdays and weddings. Ready-to-wear hanboks are a lot cheaper compared to tailor-made hanboks. Depending on the materials, a complete set of hanbok can cost from $172 to $350.
While looking for a perfect fit hanbok, you can also try some of the food stalls in the market that offers traditional Korean cuisine.
Location: 88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno 4(sa)-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Ccomaque
Ccomaque is a modern hanbok store along the Insadong cultural street in Seoul. It caters to both men and women and offers hanbok-inspired garments that you can proudly wear any time of the day. It has Sunday dresses for women as well as skirts and tops. For men, Ccomaque got jeogori-inspired overcoats and baji that resembles jogger pants. They go out of stock easily so you might want to follow them closely for new arrivals.
Location: 35 Insadong-gil, Gwanhun-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Soosulhwa
Located in the Hapjeong-dong neighborhood, Soosulhwa is a popular modern hanbok store among young girls in Seoul. The store offers knee-length to longer modernized hanbok skirts with colorful embroidery. It also has a wide range collection of see-through hanbok inspired tops, as well as printed ones. Soosulhwa's items are surprisingly cheaper given that most of them are made out of silk and other high-quality materials. Their pricing ranges from $45 to $150.
Location: 31-30 World cup-ro 3-gil, Hapjeong-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
DailyHAN
DailyHAN is reinventing the Korean tradition with its collection of casual hanboks and Korean accessories for women. Out of other modern hanbok stores in Seoul, DailyHAN has the closest collection of what a traditional hanbok looks like. With the touch of Sunday dresses, the store offers jeogori matched with knee-length skirts that feature prominent prints and embroideries. It also offers hanbok-inspired tops that you can pair with regular denim pants.
Location: 05624, Seongjeong Building, 474, Songpa-daero, Songpa-gu, Seoul
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Where To Rent Hanbok In Seoul?
Purchasing a hanbok is expensive and not ideal if you would only use it occasionally. For tourists who want to experience wearing Korea's traditional attire, renting is a better option. It saves you from unnecessary expenses and the burden of extra baggage.
There are many boutiques in Seoul and across Korea where you can rent these traditional attires, especially near tourist attractions that target foreign visitors. Here are some places in Seoul where you can hire a set of Korean hanbok.
Seohwa Hanbok Rental
Renting a hanbok at Seohwa allows you to experience royal life while exploring the Gyeongbokgung Palace, an important royal domain dating back to the Joseon Dynasty. Seohwa Hanbok Rental has a wide selection of designs and sizes, with complimentary accessories like hair bands, ribbons, and handbags for the full look. You can book through sites like KKDay and Klook.
Location: 133-5 Sajik-ro, Sajik-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Bukchon Oneday Hanbok
Oneday Hanbok rental assists customers from getting into the attire to completing their look with accessories. From the shop, you can head straight to must-see places like the nearby Bukchon Hanok Village, as well as the Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung palaces.
Location: 2nd Floor, 4 Bukchonro5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Hanboknam
Hanboknam offers a wide range of options for different occasions like weddings, birthdays, new year, and festivals. From women's to men's, Hanboknam has a nice collection, including rentals for kids. Rental fees vary based on the type of hanbok and duration. Tourists can rent for a couple of hours and explore the city while wearing it. Hanboknam has several locations near Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Jeonju, and Bukchon, which is famous for Hanok villages.
Location: 133-5 Sajik-ro, Sajik-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
YES Hanbok
YES Hanbok offers a day of hanbok experience with an impressive collection that resembles the attire of royals in the Joseon Dynasty. It offers traditional baggy and loose clothing embroidered with prominent figures like dragons, floral patterns, and clouds. The shop is conveniently located near Gyeongbok Palace, the main royal palace of the Joseon dynasty. While wearing a rented hanbok, you can explore the palace and other nearby historical sites for free.
Location: 133-6 Sajik-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Pro-Tip: Although some hanbok rental shops accept walk-ins, booking beforehand is essential. For convenience, use online booking sites like Klook to search for the shop where you want to rent. It's hassle-free and you can catch discount offers.
Putting on a hanbok isn't easy, but it's worth it because this costume is comfortable to move in and stands up to a range of temperatures. When you're exploring Korea, make sure you take the chance to experience this part of the local culture.
